The best types of plants for hanging are trailing plants, small plants and lightweight plants. Trailing plants range from the petite string of pearls or string of hearts through to mid-size spider plants and larger philodendrons or Boston fern. Small plants such as succulents and air plants are light enough to make them ideal for wall-mounted options.

Choosing where and how to hang plants

How much does the plant weigh?

One of the most important things to know when hanging a plant is how much does the hanging pot and plant weigh? A small ceramic planter and light trailing plant, such as Monstera adansonii weighs approximately 2lb/1kg. A medium ceramic 7 in (18 cm) pot weighs about 5-6lb / 2.5-3kg. A large plastic pot with a mature plant could weigh 20lb / 9.5kg. A hanging basket or a plastic pot weighs less than a ceramic pot.

The total weight depends on the size of the plant and how much moisture is in the growing medium. It will also depend on how you are suspending the plant. Chain is one of the heaviest materials, whereas a cotton fiber such as that used in macrame plant hangers weighs much less.

Where can you hang the plant?

Another important factor is choosing the location to hang your indoor plant. If you are lucky you can create the perfect focal point in your living space, in a position your plant will love.

If you aren’t sure what is best for your plant, choose a location that gets lots of bright indirect light. This means near a window but with minimal direct sunlight. Less sensitive house plants will enjoy a bit of extra light early in the mornings before it gets too hot. For sensitive plants you’ll want to avoid direct sunlight altogether, especially later in the day. Position low-light plants like ZZ plant (Zanzibar Gem) further away from windows as they don’t need as much light.

The next decision depends on whether you are open to a more permanent option. Would you like a ceiling or wall mounted hook? Or do you need a temporary option that can be easily reversed without damaging the wall or ceiling surface? The diagram below illustrates the most common options and later in this article we have some more clever ways to hang plants for you.

Display options for hanging indoor plants

1. Suction hook
2. Magnetic hook
3. Coat stand
4. Cup hook
5. Clothing rack/Plant rack
6. Toggle hook
7. Ladder
8. Adhesive wall-mounted hook

How to hang plants with ceiling-mounted hooks

Generally the preferred and secure method to mount a hanging plant is to use a ceiling hook. Hanging plants from the ceiling works particularly well in a small space if you can find an empty corner. Raising your plants frees up much needed space on your coffee table or end table, or your desk in a home office.

There are two common types of ceiling hooks; screw hooks and toggle bolt or spring hooks. The downside of these is that they put a hole in your ceiling, so might not be an option if you are renting or don’t want to damage your ceiling. A third option is a magnetic hook but you will need metal beams or drop ceiling grid for the magnet to bond to. Adhesive hooks are an option for hanging plants from a ceiling but they can’t take a heavy load so are only suitable for small light plants. We’ll cover those in more detail later.

To choose the right location for your ceiling-mounted plant hook, measure the diameter of the planter. Position the hook at least this distance from the wall. That gives you half the distance from the center of the pot (directly below the hook) to the edge of the pot and half from the edge of the pot to the wall.

If your pot is holding a plant that has a spreading or lateral growth habit then place the hook at least 1.5 x the planter diameter from the wall. This image shows the how far the plant should be from the wall. The wider plant (1) has more space around it and the narrower plant (2) is closer to the wall.

Cup (screw) hook

You can’t just screw a regular ceiling hook (cup hook) into drywall (plasterboard). You need to mount the hook screw into a timber ceiling joist or exposed beam to support the weight of wall planters or hanging plants. This limits your options for where the hook can go as it needs to align to a joist. You’ll need a stud finder to locate the joist, and a hook with a thread that is thick enough and long enough to support the weight of the plant. You can also insert a cup hook through drywall into wall studs to attach hanging planters. This will work for planters that sit flush against a wall like the ones shown below.

How to install a cup/screw hook for hanging plants

1. Locate a suitable anchor point for the hook such as a wall stud or ceiling joist if you will be inserting through drywall.
2. Drill a small pilot hole slightly narrower than the screw thread at the mounting location.
3. Manually twist the screw into the anchor point.
4. Hang your plant.

Toggle hook

If you want more flexibility with hook location you should use a toggle screw with a hook attachment. A toggle screw (or toggle bolt) has spring-loaded wings that fold down to allow the screw to be inserted into a hole in drywall. As the wings pass through the hole the spring pushes them out and they can’t pass back through the hole. You then anchor the wings firmly against the drywall by tightening a bolt against a washer. Toggle bolts work on walls or ceilings and each one can take a load of about 20 lb/9.5 kg. If your plant is heavy you can always install two or more hooks and spread the load over multiple points.

Installing a toggle screw hook

1. Using a regular drill bit, drill a guide hole in the drywall where the hook is going to be.
2. Then using a spade bit that is slightly larger than the width of the toggle screw when the wings are folded down.
3. Fit a washer to the screw.
4. Pass the screw through the toggle and wind a few times so that toggle secures to the thread.
5. Fold the wings down, insert them through the hole in in the drywall and they will pop out as the toggle passes through.
6. Tighten the screw until the washer is sitting flat against the drywall.
7. Hang the planter.

Damage-free ceiling hook – Magnetic hook

A magnetic hook is the easiest way to hang a plant from the ceiling but it requires uncovered or thinly covered steel beams or a drop ceiling with metal grid track. If you aren’t sure take your strongest fridge magnet and slide it across the wall or ceiling. You’ll feel it want to stick over an area if there is metal behind it.

A fridge magnet is barely strong enough to hold itself to a wall. Fortunately, there are extra strength magnetic hooks available that will have no trouble supporting a 100 lb/ 45 kg load. That’s plenty enough to hang your big pots from. If you go the heavy duty option you could even install hanging shelves (see later in article). Each corner would attach to a different magnet hook giving you a 4 x increase in your load limit.

How to hang plants from wall-mounted hooks

Screw-in hooks

Wall-mounted screw hooks give you the ultimate flexibility in decor options and can be a fun way to add personality to your home or liven up an empty wall. Use a single discrete hook to hang an amazing wall planter or you can make the hook a feature and secure a decorative hook or set of hooks to the wall. The key to wall-mounted hooks is to use the correct screw for the material you are mounting the hook to. There are particular screws that are better suited to masonry or timber applications.

For drywall (plasterboard) you will need to use a plastic anchors. Drywall anchors are rated by the load they need to support and are sized accordingly. They work in a similar way to toggle screws in that they expand after they pass through the drywall so that they can’t pull back through. If you attempting to hang a seriously big plant you should check out this video. It demonstrates installation and strength testing for a range of wall anchors.

How to install a wall hook with a drywall anchor

1. Select the correct size to support the load that will be hanging from the hook
2. Following instructions, drill a pilot hole in the wall
3. Insert the anchor or toggle
4. Affix the hook
5. Hang your plant

Adhesive hooks

Adhesive hooks, such as Command hooks, are a great damage-free option if you want to be able to remove the hook at a later time. You can use adhesive strips to attach almost any hook mounted to a flat surface on your wall or ceiling. This means you have maximum flexibility with the appearance of your hook. As shown below, ceiling-mounted adhesive hooks have been used to suspend this trailing plant that is sitting on a bedside table. You can get the full hanging plant experience without actually having to hang a plant from your ceiling.

These vintage drawers are mounted on a wall to create shadow boxes and small shelves. They have been secured with screws but as they have a large flat surface area adhesive strips will work with this type of project. Ask at your hardware store for the hook and loop adhesive strips that are used for mounting picture frames to walls. Just be mindful of the load they can support as you may need to use extra strips to support the weight of the drawer plus the decorative items sitting on it. If you like this look you can buy similar shelves here.

Follow the steps below to mount a hook or shadow box to your wall.

How to attach an adhesive hook

1. Following the instructions, prepare the wall by cleaning it and allowing it to dry.
2. Apply the adhesive strip (Command strip) to the hook and then stick the other side of the adhesive strip to the wall. Apply firm pressure for the recommended time, usually 60 seconds.
3. Leave it at least an hour, but preferably 24 hours before hanging your plant. This gives the adhesive time to form a secure bond before it is placed under load.
4. Make sure you keep the removal instructions in a safe place so that when the time comes you are able to remove the adhesive strip without damaging the wall.

Suction cup hook

Suction cup hangers work on glass or smooth ceramic tile. Windows and skylights are the perfect place to hang a plant from a suction cup as they provide an abundance of light for the plant. The best plants to hang from a suction cup are the smaller and lighter plants that can tolerate a lot of light and heat. If you are using a skylight you might need to increase the hanging length so that the plant sits further away from the skylight. If your plant is nearing the weight limit use two or more suction cups to spread the weight load between the cups.

Suction cup hooks and other suction cup supports work well in bathrooms and laundries. This is because there are usually lots of smooth surfaces such as tiles and glass to mount them to. Suction cup soap holders and shower shelves can be attached to any glass or tile surface so are an ideal way to create a small shelf for your plant to sit on.

To install suction cup hooks clean the glass before you apply the suction cup as per directions. Just like with adhesive hooks, once you have applied the suction cup wait at least an hour or up to 24 hours before hanging the plant. This is to allow a strong seal to form.

How to hang plants without installing hooks

Clothing rack or coat rack

Hanging plants on a rack such as a clothes rack or coat rack is a great way to show off a collection of plants in macramé plant holders. This option may be best for smaller, lighter hanging plants. This is an easy way to make use of vertical space for those who are renting or in an apartment and can’t attach hooks to their wall or ceiling. They can be moved closer to or further away from a light source as needed to maintain the optimal environment for the plants.

Many clothing racks have a lower shelf that can also be used to display your plant pots. Take note of the recommended weight or load limit of the rack as some racks are not designed to carry heavy loads.

Tension pole

Tension poles or tension rods are an adjustable length pole with rubber stoppers at either end. You simply place the tension rod between two fixed surfaces (i.e. two walls) and twist or screw the pole to lengthen it. Continue screwing until it has created enough tension to anchor the pole between the two points. This works best for short distances so is ideal for small spaces such as a laundry or bathroom. Removing the pole is as easy as unscrewing to release the tension. This makes them a great option if you don’t want to damage your walls.

Once the pole is installed use an S hook to hang your plant, or slide a hanging loop over the pole before you install it. It’s possible to hang multiple plants from a tension pole however you need to be mindful of how much weight it can support.

Tension poles can also be installed vertically between the floor and ceiling. Make sure that you are placing it directly under a ceiling joist so that it doesn’t damage your ceiling. Once the tension pole is installed you can use clamps to attach plants. Alternatively, you can install two tension poles vertically and use clamps to secure another pole horizontally between them. Hang plants from the horizontal pole and they can use the vertical poles for support to climb up.

How to hang plants from existing structures

Use existing structures such as air vents as a base to secure a hook is an option, but really isn’t a practical one. Hanging a plant directly under an air vent is going to dry it out. A better option is a stair rail on a first floor landing. S hooks come in a range of sizes. If you can get one that slips easily over the stair rail then that’s about the quickest and best way to hang a plant using a feature already in the home.

You can also hang plants from a curtain rod as shown below, but it means that you compromise on privacy. If you go with this option large hooks like the ones shown make it easy to move the plants if you need to clean the window/door or close the curtains. Note in this picture that the door side has the highest pots so as not to obstruct people walking through. The fixed window side has plants at different heights for visual interest. If you do decide to go with this option but would like to maintain as much privacy as possible, arrange each hanging planter at a different height to create a massed display of foliage.

Over-door hooks are another quick and easy solution as long as you have unused doors. They will also work on a fixed-frame shower screen. Only use this option for low-weight plants if hanging on a shower screen.

Hanging plants from light fittings

Light fittings can also be used as an anchor point to hang plants. Of course this means that you need to be careful about water. You can find DIY projects like this one online. There are also commercially available light fittings that incorporate a planter that you can purchase and replace the existing light fitting. These look amazing in kitchens or a dining or living room.

Suspended shelves for hanging indoor plants

Suspended shelves are a beautiful way to create impressive displays for those of you with a green thumb and have a lot of plants. They give you the ultimate flexibility in home decor. See below for creative ideas on how to use the various heights. Place plants that need lots of attention and items that get regular use within easy reach. The top shelf is the ideal spot for a tall plant.

This method will work with extra-strong magnetic hooks or heavy duty screw-threaded hooks that are mounted in a timber joist. First, attach a rope from each hook and run it through holes drilled in each end of the shelf. This could be one hole on each end as shown, or two holes at each end, with one in each corner. Next, tie a knot below the shelf, checking that it stays level, and add extra shelves as needed.

You can also use this method to suspend an old ladder from the ceiling and then place hanging hooks over the rungs of the ladder. Just tie each end of the ladder rails (not the rungs) to the ropes. You’ll get the best results with light weight shelves that are strong enough to support your different plants.

Wall-mounted shelves

A wall-mounted shelf if installed correctly will be able to support the weight of your plants as well as heavier objects like books. Position plants on the top of the shelf or hang from the edge of the shelf. Floating shelves or bracket-mounted shelves are both suitable. Which one you chose just depends on your aesthetic preference. If you don’t want to get out the power tools or damage your walls then regular bookshelves will do just fine. A creative way to screen an area is to use backless shelves stocked with a collection of indoor plants, creating a wall of lush green foliage.

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Are there concerns that were not addressed here? We’re here to help.

Whether you’re a seasoned plant parent or just starting out, there’s a spider plant out there for you. With so many different types of spider plants available its easy to find the perfect spider plant to fit your style and space.

So, let’s learn about the different types of spider plants and how to care for them to keep your leafy friend thriving! Our guide includes some common varieties you might be familiar with and introduces you to some new ones.

There’s a picture gallery at the end of the page that will help you learn how to tell the difference between all the different Chlorophytum varieties that are commonly kept as houseplants.

If you are a new plant parent then check out our simple guide to taking care of your spider plant. Well-drained soil, bright light, and a little feed during the growing season (spring and summer months) is all it takes. Make sure you have at least one of these beautiful plants to brighten up your living room.

Generally when we talk about varieties of spider plants the botanical name will be one from the Chlorophytum species. There are however, different species known as spider plants, such as Cleome, called the spider flower, and Lycoris, known as the spider lily. Other names for Chlorophytum include airplane plant, spider ivy, ribbon plant and the less-than-appealing name toilet plant.

Spider plants are on of the safest plants have in your home or garden. That’s because they come with super-powers. Research published in 2021¹ demonstrated the power of chlorophytum comosum as an air purifier. It was able to remove of particulate matter, carbon monoxide, benzene, formaldehyde and carbon dioxide. One plant is sufficient for a room of 10 m² /100 ft². Chlorophytum borivilanum and others are used in Ayurvedic medicine and all Chlorophytum spp. are safe for kids and pets.

Growing spider plants

Unless otherwise specified, all the spider plants described below like bright indirect light if indoors. If outdoors they like dappled light or partial shade. Direct sun, especially in the afternoon, can cause brown tips on the leaves. The opposite problem, not enough light, can result in leaves that lack the distinct variegation and color that spider plants are known for. If you are using fluoridated tap water for your indoor plant you might want to filter it first. This is because fluorides can cause leaf discoloration in spider plants.

As Chlorophytum are tropical plants they like similar conditions to their natural environment. Moist soil, humid air, and an average temperature of around 12-21 ^oC or 55-70 ^oF will keep them happy. Indoors they shouldn’t attract many pests. If they do it will likely by spider mites but are also susceptible to scale and aphids. Horticultural oil or insecticidal soap can take care of all of these pests.

Most spider plants produce tiny white flowers with 6 petals in a star pattern. The flowers cluster on long stems (racemes) the length of which varies across the different varieties. They aren’t grown for their flowers though, they are grown for their attractive foliage.

Types of spider plants:

Shamrock spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum

This variety can seem a little underwhelming when compared to its showier cousins. This is one of the few solid green spider plants, with dark green leaves, hence its common name Shamrock spider plant. The only other color is the small white flowers it produces. It can grow to a height and width of 2 ft or 60 cm but will generally be smaller if grown indoors. Outdoors it makes a great a border or ground cover in USDA zones 9-11 and will tolerate periods of dryness once established. In USDA zone 8 it can survive if in a protected location and has a supportive microclimate.

Variegated spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegata’

This variety has leaves with a green stripe down the center and white or cream margins. The reverse pattern is seen in C.comosum ‘Vittata which is sometimes called Reverse Variegatum for just this reason. It can grow to a height and width of 2 ft or 60 cm but will generally be smaller if grown indoors. Outdoors the variegated spider plant is a common border or ground cover in USDA zones 9-11 and will tolerate periods of dryness once established. In USDA zone 8 it can survive if in a protected location and has a supportive microclimate.

Reverse variegated spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum ‘Vittata’

Just like it sounds, the leaves on this plant have the reverse pattern to the variegated spider plant variety. White stripes are in the center of the leaf and dark green along the margins. Indoors it will grow to a height and width of 12 in or 30 cm but can reach double this if grown outside in ideal conditions. It makes an attractive border or ground cover in outdoor gardens located in USDA zones 9-11. In USDA zone 8 it can survive if in a protected location and has a supportive microclimate. Once established outdoors the reverse variegated spider plant will tolerate periods of dryness.

Curly spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum ‘Bonnie’

The unique appearance of this plant makes it perfect for a hanging basket. Bonnie’s curly leaves cascade over the edge in loops which is why it is also known as the ribbon plant. Variegated Bonnie spider plant is a great choice for small spaces as it only grows to 8 in or 20 cm wide. It is also one of the few Chlorophytum that produce a colored flower, showing off the lovely yellow star-shaped flowers over the summer months. Outdoors Bonnie is only suitable in USDA zones 10 and 11 and indoors it grows best in temperature range of 16-24 ^oC or 60-75 ^oF.

Ocean spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum ‘Ocean’

Ocean spider plant has similar markings to Variegata but the leaves of this plant are shorter and wider and the margins tend to be cream rather than white. Having shorter leaves means that like Bonnie, it is one of the smaller varieties, reaching 12 in or 30 cm in height and width. It also likes the same warmer temperatures as Bonnie.

Ocean needs more humidity than other spider plant varieties. If you see brown crispy tips develop on the leaves they are a sign that the growing environment needs more moisture in the air. You can sit the plant over a tray of water with pebbles in it, just make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t in contact with the water. Another way to increase humidity is using a spray bottle to mist leaves.

Atlantic spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum ‘Atlantic’

Atlantic spider plant has a similar appearance to Vittata but with shorter narrow leaves. Just like the other shorties, Ocean and Bonnie, it grows to around 20 cm or 8 in wide and high. All three of them though have gorgeous hanging plantlets. This variety is happier on the dry side in winter months so be careful if you tend to over-water.

Lemon spider plant – Chlorophytum comosum ‘Lemon’

Lemon spider plant’s shiny green leaves are a pale lemon in the center. It’s one of the larger varieties growing to 20 in or 50 cm wide and high. It can grow outdoors in USDA zones 10 and 11. If you are looking for an all green spider plant and having trouble finding one the Lemon spider plant makes a good alternative. It also looks great planted or position next to Fire Flash spider plant.

Hawaiian spider plant – Chlorophytum viridescens ‘Hawaiian’

You can see why Hawaiian spider plant is sometimes called Golden Glow. Instead of cream or white variegations this one has golden yellow centres with a bright green margin. The long narrow leaves form in a rosette pattern at the base.

The plant produces long, thin stems that bear small white flowers, which develop into small plantlets or “spiderettes” that can be propagated and grown into new plants.

Zebra spider plant – Chlorophytum laxum

Thin white edges on the margins of the leaves and a dark green center give the zebra spider plant its name. The short narrow leaves give it another common name, zebra grass. It is also called Bichetii grass, Siam Lily and St Bernard’s Lily. It’s usually grown outdoors, especially in its native West Africa or in USDA zones 10 and 11. It can handle full sunlight for brief periods in the morning but prefers light shade. For brief periods (4-6 weeks) it can survive as an aquatic plant and loves to grow in terrariums.

Fire Flash spider plant – Chlorophytum orchidastrum or Chlorophytum filipendulm subsp amiansis ‘Fire Flash’

This variety of spider plant goes by lots of names including Fire Glory, orange spider plant, tangerine plant, mandarin plant and Sierra Leone lily. Fire Flash spider plant is a valued ornamental plant because of its unusual orange petioles (stalks) and wavy margins on the leaves. The leaves are fragile so be careful when transplanting and don’t place it in a high traffic area. Native to southern Africa it is named after the city of Amani in Tanzania. It can grow up to 45 cm or 18 in in containers or a huge 1.5m / 5 ft outdoors in a tropical setting.

Chlorophytum Holstii / Chlorophytum Hofmannii

This variety of spider plant has broad dark green leaves similar in size and shape to the Fire Flash spider plant and averages six leaves to a rosette. Like many other Chlorophytum it is native to tropical Africa and grows in dense evergreen forests as well as on rocky hillsides. Flowers develop on short stalks as opposed to the long arching racemes on most other spider plants. It is not available commercially and as a result is not well known.

Capense spider plant – Chlorophytum capense

The distinguishing feature of this variety is that it doesn’t form the plantlets or baby spider plants that the C.comosum varieties are known for. Capense spider plant can have either medium green leaves or variegated leaves, in which case the variegation pattern is cream center with dark green margins. Growing and care conditions are the same as for most types of spider plant – moist well-drained soil and bright indirect light or partial shade. It can handle lower temperatures than most varieties but not frost. Propagation is via seed or division.

Starlight spider plant – Chlorophytum saundersiae

This is one of the few Chlorophytum that can handle some direct sunlight and tends to be grown outdoors rather than indoors. It is named after botanist Katherine Saunders (1824-1901). Starlight has long thin strappy dark green leaves with tall vertical racemes of tiny white flowers in summer months. Unlike other spider plants it does not form rhizomes or tubers. It originated on the east coast of Africa in coastal regions and is native to the area’s coastal grasslands. This means that it tolerates sandy soil well, particularly if it is enriched in compost. It will also tolerate frosts and wet soils, and is suitable for USDA zones 8-11. Propagation is easiest via seed.

Watergrass – Chlorophytum saundersiae ‘Watergrass’

Watergrass is another hardy spider plant variety. It’s appearance is similar to Starlight (see above) but with purple flowers. It looks great massed in a border planting either on its own or mixed with Watergrass.

Safed Musli – Chlorophytum borivilianum ‘Santapau’ ‘Fernandes’

This variety is native to wet forests in India, particularly around the Borivili National Park after which it is named. It is grown commercially for use in Ayurvedic medicine where it has the nickname “Ayurvedic Viagra”. The tuberous rhizomes of the plant are particularly highly valued. This is one of the larger varieties and has long and narrow solid green leaves arranged in a rosette pattern. It will grow up to 5 ft / 1.5 m and thrives in high humidity.

How to tell the difference between different types of spider plants

Variegated

Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegatum’

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• Leaves have green stripe with white margin
• Additional stripes on leaves.

Hawaiian

Chlorophytum viridescens ‘Hawaiian’

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• Yellow center with green margins.
• Leaves may have extra stripes.

Fire Flash

Chlorophytum orchidastrum ‘Fire Flash’

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• Orange petioles (stalks) and leaves with wavy margins
• Flowers on short stems

Ocean

Chlorophytum comosum ‘Ocean’

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• Wide green leaves with white edge.
• Shorter leaves and smaller plant size.

Vittatum

Chlorophytum comosum ‘Vittatum’

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• Leaves have white stripe with green margin
• Additional stripes on leaves may be present

Atlantic

Clorophytum comosum ‘Atlantic’

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• Shorter and narrower leaves than Vittatum.
• Cream center with dark green margins.

Bonnie

Chlorophytum comosum ‘Bonnie’

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• Leaves are long and curled
• Leaves have white stripe and green margin

Zebra

Chlorophytum laxum

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• Short narrow green leaves with thin white margin
• No plantlets form on this variety

Lemon

Chlorophytum comosum ‘Lemon’

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• Elongated lime green leaves darken with age.
• Lemon yellow center to leaves

How to grow new baby spider plants

Propagating spider plants is easy by either division or seed. Division can involve dividing the rhizome in some plants, or in others requires separating the pups from the parent plant. A higher success rate comes from layering – placing the pup on a small pot of soil with a paperclip bent into a U shape anchoring it to the soil. In a short time roots will form, at which point the stem connecting the pup to the mother plant can be cut and you have a new spider plant.

You can also try striking roots by sitting a pup in water. Basically, all you need to do is suspend the pup over a jar of water with the base in contact with the water. Roots may have already started to grow while it was attached to the mother plant or will start very quickly. Once the roots grow to at least 1/2 in or 13 mm the pup is ready to plant. If you are planting seeds they should be 1/2 inch or 13 mm deep and kept in a warm humid place until they germinate.

This article was written and researched by:

Still have questions?

Are there concerns that were not addressed here? We’re here to help.

References

(1) Bandehali, S.; Miri, T.; Onyeaka, H.; Kumar, P. Current State of Indoor Air Phytoremediation Using Potted Plants and Green Walls. Atmosphere 2021, 12, 473. https:// doi.org/10.3390/atmos12040473

Spoiler alert: we recommend Bisset and Golden Hedge bamboos as the best bamboo plants for screening and privacy. Check out the top 15 bamboo plants for screening and privacy below! There’s a really handy summary for you at the end of the article.

If you are looking for an easy-care, fast growing screening plant that will grow in almost any climate zone, bamboo has to be at the top of your list. In fact, it is one of the fastest growing plants in the world. Though usually considered a tropical climate plant, bamboo will surprise you demonstrating extreme hardiness. Temperatures down to -10 ^oF / -23 ^oC are tolerated by some varieties.

Within weeks of planting your bamboo hedge it will be putting out new shoots and in no time at all you’ll have a wall of dense foliage. Fast forward 2-3 years and your bamboo privacy screen is fully grown.

How to choose the best bamboo

There are so many different types of bamboo that are suitable for screening and evergreen hedges that it’s easiest to start by narrowing down the list. Bamboo is generally divided into two categories; non-invasive clumping bamboo and running bamboo.

Running bamboo is the invasive type that gives bamboo a bad name. It’s the one that leaves people cursing because it has spread throughout their garden and they can’t get rid of it. This is an easy option to eliminate as it just isn’t a good option for most gardens. The only time you want to use this type of bamboo is if it has a root barrier such as a pot or special underground concrete bamboo rhizome barrier. If you really have your heart set on a running bamboo there are ways to prevent it getting out of hand, but it takes extra time, effort and expense.

Clumping bamboo on the other hand is a non-invasive variety, making it a great choice for most gardens. It spreads, but in a controlled and uniform manner with a reasonably contained root ball. Because it develops clumps instead of runners, it has a denser habit so is much better suited to screening and privacy applications.

Site requirements

The width of the garden bed (or space if you are using containers) is the most important factor to achieve a full screen effect. A dense bamboo can achieve good screening in a narrower space. The narrowest you can go is about 40cm/16 inches. Less compact varieties will need a wide space of up to 1-1.5 m/3-5 ft to achieve the desired density for a privacy fence.

Next work out the height the bamboo needs to achieve for screening and privacy. Bamboo is generally going to be taller than you need so you may need to trim taller bamboos to the desired height. Alternatively, there are dwarf varieties available that might be just the height you need.

Water, light and cold tolerance are your next factors to consider. Most species of bamboo will perform best when given lots of sun and some protection from strong winds. Some varieties however, will tolerate more shade. If you want a colored bamboo it will perform best in a sunny location. The Fargesia varieties of bamboo are generally more cold tolerant that the Bambusa and other varieties.

Almost all will tolerate periods of dryness when established, but not all will tolerate wet soils. If this is a challenge at your site then Red Margin bamboo (Phyllostachys rubromarginata ‘Red Margin’) or Bisset bamboo (Phyllostachys bissetii) might be the right bamboo for you.

Finally, you get to the fun part; how your bamboo should look. Did you know that it comes in shades from white to pale pink, yellow, orange, red, blue and even black? Foliage can be plain or variegated and the canes or culms can have vertical or horizontal stripes.

Now you get to choose. Our list below isn’t in any particular order because the best bamboo for you depends on the requirements we have just discussed. Almost all of these bamboo varieties are clumping bamboo, so you don’t need to worry about it taking over. Don’t forget, there’s a handy summary at the end of the page.

The 15 best types of bamboo for hedges, screens and privacy are:

Slender Weavers Bamboo

Gracilis/ Slender weavers bamboo (Bambusa textilis var. gracilis) will grow in narrow spaces of just 16 inches wide or can spread to 5 feet wide. At up to 25 ft high when grown in the right conditions this is one of the most versatile bamboo varieties. There’s little wonder it is one of the most popular available.

Goldstripe Bamboo

Goldstripe bamboo (Bambusa multiplex ‘Goldstripe’) is another of the bamboo varieties that can squeeze into a narrow 16 in (40 cm) space. However, to get the best from it a 3 ft (1 m) garden bed is best. You’ll want to trim the lower branches off this one to reveal the stunning golden stripes on the green canes.

Golden Goddess Bamboo

Golden Goddess bamboo (Bambusa multiplex ‘Golden goddess’) is one of the most popular hedging bamboos in the USA. It needs full sun and a reasonable amount of water, therefore isn’t suited to dry climates. Nor is it suited to wet soils. Canes are one the thinnest of all bamboos listed here.

Chinese Dwarf Bamboo

Chinese Dwarf bamboo (Bambusa guangxiensis) excels when trimmed to around 8 ft / 2.5 m but left untrimmed will extend to 20 ft / 6 m. It has a very lush and bushy appearance with lots of dark green foliage.

Umbrella Bamboo

Umbrella bamboo (Fargesia murielae) has a lighter green foliage that can have a yellow tinge to it. It is disease and deer resistant but it doesn’t like dryness, preferring moist or wet soils.

Golden Hedge Bamboo

Golden Hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex ‘Alphonse Karr’) features bright golden canes with thin vertical green stripes and dark green leaves. It has a dense growth habit and will glow in all its glory in just three years if given lots of sun.

Asian Wonder Bamboo

Asian Wonder bamboo (Fargesia Scabrida ‘Asian Wonder’) is a narrow leaved bamboo variety. New growth starts off purple and then ages to olive green with orange culm sheaths. It likes to grow into quite a wide clump given it’s shorter height and is suited to part-sun or shade.

Tropical Blue Bamboo

Tropical Blue bamboo (Bambusa chungii) is also known as Blue Timber bamboo and its smaller form, Baby Blue bamboo (Bambusa chungii barbelleta). This is a similar size to Seabreeze but is less dense. New growth has a white powder on the canes that create a gorgeous light blue hue.

Campbell Bamboo

Campbell bamboo (Fargesia robusta ‘Campbell’) has small leaves and forms tight clumps making it suitable for containers as well as permanent plantings. It is dark green all over but culm sheaths age to white. Tolerates wind better than some of the other varieties.

Buddha’s Belly Bamboo

Buddha’s belly (Bambusa ventricosa) grows little bulging bellies above each node when stressed. The combined effect of this gives each cane a ribbed effect. It grows to a maximum height of 55 ft or 18 m. A Dwarf form is available if the towering height is too much for your site. This is a very accommodating bamboo that can tolerate periods of wet and dry soils. You’ll love its tiny bright green leaves almost as much as its belly bulge.

Bissett Bamboo

Bisset bamboo (Phyllostachys bissetii) is an extremely hardy bamboo that will grow in USDA zones 5a-10. It has a lovely dark green cane and foliage that will form a dense screen and reach full height in four years. Canes that get full sun can mature to a pale golden shade. Bisset bamboo is the best choice for cold climates. It can handle temperatures as low as -15 ^oF or with a little extra root protection from thick mulch can go to -25 ^oF. A dwarf form that grows to 18 ft / 5.5 m is available.

Giant Timber Bamboo

Giant timber bamboo (Bambusa oldhamii) is truly a giant, growing up to 60 feet tall with canes that are up to 5 in in diameter. It is not as dense as other varieties with narrower canes yet still makes a beautiful hedge or screen. This is a good choice if you’d like extra ambiance from the sounds of the canes creaking and clacking as they sway in the breeze. It will achieve most of its height in the first three years with growth beyond that point being thickening of canes.

Tropical Black Bamboo

Tropical Black bamboo (Bambusa lako) also known as Timor Black bamboo is the ideal alternative to the popular running black bamboo Phyllostachys nigra. It is a tropical or temperate bamboo so isn’t as cold hardy as some other varieties but if you provide good protection for the roots with thick mulch new shoots will emerge each spring.

Seabreeze Bamboo

Seabreeze bamboo (Bambusa malingensis) is fast to establish and has a very dense and upright growth habit. Canes and foliage are green with nodes that have a tinge of blue-white. It grows up to 40 ft / 12 m high, making this bamboo a highly effective wind break.

Dragon’s Head Bamboo

Dragon’s Head bamboo (Fargesia dracocephala) will give you a bushy looking screen rather than a narrow upright one. This bamboo has a weeping rather than upright habit so needs some room to spread. It doesn’t like direct sun or heat so is best for morning sun or part shade in cool to mild climates.

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